QBE July 2022 Expedition Update—Brest

The crew on Marie Claude this week

Last night we were in the Aber Wrac’h, a small village and harbor on the river Wrac’h. Today we’re in Brest, the historic port city at the tip of the Breton peninsula where we’re looking forward to a visit to Océanopolis, one of Europe’s most impressive aquariums and largest oceanographic research centers. Tomorrow night, we’ll have a great view of the city’s spectacular Bastille Day fireworks display before moving on. QBE expeditions are always about a lot more than just sailing—they’re a template for what summer “worldschooling” courses can be.


Here’s a short video trailer for Océanopolis. It’s in French, but even if you can’t read the titles, you’ll get a good feel for what the aquarium has to offer. The trailer is just 80 seconds long.

Reserve your place now for next season

Hey parents and grandparents! Do something special for your teen next summer: let him/her experience the romance and excitement of an old-school European sailing expedition on our gaff-rig pilot cutters. And why not?

✅ Sailing is a safe team sport in which everybody gets to participate

✅ It’s a top-shelf life skill

✅ Crew members not only learn to sail, they explore, discover, and expand their horizons

✅ There are no ticks or mosquitoes in our sailing area

✅ A QBE expedition is a singular coming-of-age experience that makes for winning university admission essays

✅ Sailing is spectacular fun

Next summer will be here before you know it, and several applications already have been submitted for the 2023 season. So reserve your place(s) now on an unforgettable small-group sailing adventure. If you know somebody else who might be interested in a European sailing expedition next July or August, forward them a link to our website or send us their coordinates and we’ll send them some information.
* A QBE sailing expedition makes a great birthday, Holiday, or graduation gift—a present that will pay dividends next summer and for years to come.

QBE Outdoor Education—live-aboard team sailing and personal development for 15–18 year olds. Trusted by parents since 1992. Instruction is in English, French also spoken.

Our pilot cutters: before and after

The antifouling begins on one of our pilot cutters

One of our pilot cutters as antifouling wraps up

We’re happy to report that three years of crud have been scraped from the hulls of our two pilot cutters, a process known as antifouling. A lot of hard work has gone into getting the boats ready for this season after the horrific “COVID pause.” And look at that sky! How appropriate that, as we prepare to sail again, dark winter clouds have lifted to provide us with some spectacular weather.

Getting ready for the season

St-Malo, France. Wednesday 18 May, 2022: A bird’s-eye view of one of our pilot cutters. Between now and July, we’re working flat-out to get our boats ready for the season—new electronics, new varnish, new rope, new life boats, new paint, and soon—some lucky new crew members!

(“… Now, how do I get down?”)

A blithesome step forward

Arthur Rackham’s illustration of Grahame’s two rats.

Some of you no doubt will recognize the following passage from The Wind in the Willows, a famous children's book by British writer Kenneth Grahame that spins a tale of several anthropomorphised animals living in the English countryside. In one chapter there is a discussion between a river rat homebody and an adventuring seafaring rat.

In a plea from the seafaring rat (who wants to hop aboard a ship headed south) to the river rat (who wants to remain behind), the case is made for a great adventure. (We have redacted and substituted some text, e.g., substituting “a larger world’”for ‘“the South'‘ to make a point.)

”And you, you will come too, young brother; for the days pass, and never return, and [a larger world] still waits for you. Take the Adventure, heed the call, now ere the irrevocable moment passes! ‘Tis but a banging of the door behind you, a blithesome step forward, and you are out of the old life and into the new! Then some day, some day long hence, jog home here if you will, when the cup has been drained and the play has been played, and sit down by your quiet river with a store of goodly memories for company. You can easily overtake me on the road, for you are young, and I am aging and go softly. I will linger, and look back; and at last I will surely see you coming, eager and light-hearted, with [so many amazing experiences] in your face!

We offer a terrific adventure opportunity for young adults. You should seize it.

Did you know Guernsey has a Diamond Museum?

It shouldn’t come as a surprise. After all, there’s a lot of money sloshing about in the Channel Islands—Monaco-dans-la-Manche (Monaco in the English Channel). But just in case you didn’t know and might be interested…

From the tourist bureau’s website:

Want to know how to spot a quality diamond in the rough? Learn how to choose the perfect stone for you and become a diamond expert from carat to cut; clarity to colour. Nestled safely in the old John Tanns bankers vault, The Guernsey Diamond Museum gives a fascinating insight and practical guide into the sparkling world of diamonds. Find out the gemstones rich history, including mystery, scandal and superstition along with expert tips and information on picking out diamond jewellery

* FWIW: We note that there are also a surprising number of exotic/super cars on prosperous Jersey, an island with a 40mph speed limit. We can only assume the locals don’t want to waste much time going from 0 to 40?

There really are so many unexpected things to see and do in our sailing area. What we lack in coconut palms we more than make up for in rich history, cultural treasures, and fascinating discoveries.

Two kinds of European enrichment trips (for non-European teens)

Most parents packing their teenagers off to Europe for the first time send them to one or more major cultural capitals to see the famous sights: London, Munich, Paris, Rome, Florence, Venice, etc. And all those cities are indeed feasts for the eyes and other senses. Nobody would argue that they shouldn’t be on a bucket list.

But then there are some who opt for a “road-less-traveled” itinerary. Both kinds of adventures fire a young adult’s imagination. But the former is intended primarily to stimulate the intellect while the latter often emphasizes character building and looks to chip away at adolescent parochialism with a more “authentic“ European experience. That would best describe a QBE expedition.

Our crew members don’t get lost in great hordes of tourists or stand in lines for hours waiting for a glimpse of an artistic masterpiece. Instead, they explore more off-the-beaten-path coastal Europe. They get to make new friends, some who don’t speak the same native language. They learn a new skill—traditional sailing. They set and meet ambitious goals. And they get the chance to experience unexpected folkways, avoiding the faux culture and claustrophobia of crowded tourist traps. Too, sailing from port to port, there’s more time to reflect and assimilate new experiences along the way.

In a recent Instagram post by filmmaker Nancy Myers (Something’s Gotta Give, The Holiday), she mentioned that she first went to Paris as a year-eleven student, along with her French class. It made an enduring impression. In fact, Europe features prominently in several of her romantic comedies. Interestingly, there were several comments from her followers mentioning that they, too, had first gone to France as teenagers and that their experiences in the French capital profoundly enriched their lives, as well. So Paris is indeed a great destination—a proven winner. It can even be a life-changer.

But to paraphrase the famous line from Casablanca, “You’ll always have Paris.” Or Rome. Or London. They will always be there, waiting for you. A teenage European expedition on classic yachts won’t be. Alas, we all grow up and move on with our lives.

Then, of course, maybe you can find a way to do both during the same summer break?

Folly or Gift?

Will Sutherland, QBE’s founder and director, has been teaching for some 50 years. But he’s been sailing for longer than that. Many in his family think he should retire; after all, that’s what most people do when they reach retirement age. They think the QBE project is now nothing more than an old sailor’s folly.

But what if you have a passion for what you do? What if you have a real gift for teaching? What if you’re a modern-day Obi-Wan Kenobi, able to impart knowledge and insights that can change the trajectories of young lives?

Will was born to teach. It’s clearly his calling. And for as long as he can, he plans to use his boats to inspire new generations of young adults. Many of us who had invaluable mentors as young adults will always be thankful for the Will Sutherlands of this world. if you’re a teenager, you really should jump at the chance to join somebody with his experience and expertise on one of his unique expeditions. It actually is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Teens: Learn to sail on a QBE Pilot Cutter

If you want to learn how to sail, you should choose 1) a terrific instructor and 2) a great boat on which to learn. We’ve got both. You can join us this summer, in July or August. When you go home, you’ll be a proficient sailor—and navigator. Book your place now! (Watch QBE founder and director Will Sutherland discuss his boats here.

Stargazing

There are many surprising things to see and dozens of things to do on a QBE sailing expedition. But of all the memories our crew members take home, many cite spectacular stargazing as among the most indelible. The heavens are always above us, but often barely visible. When you’re at sea or on a small island, the fog caused by light pollution lifts and the heavens reveal themselves. It’s, well, a revelation. And some claim a spiritual experience.

https://www.visitguernsey.com/magazine/stargazing-on-the-islands-of-guernsey/

The most welcoming towns in Brittany according to booking.com

Auray has shown its hospitality to Americans for over two centuries. The plaque says that on December 4, 1776, Benjamin Franklin, as the American envoy to France, disembarked at Auray [on his way to Paris] to negotiate the first alliance between the two countries [or between France and the ASPIRING independent country that, after the 1783 Treaty of Paris, would become the “free, sovereign, and independent” United States of America]. That alliance would provide the American colonists with much-needed military and financial assistance. The American Revolutionary War practically bankrupted France and contributed to the demise of the French monarchy.

(We got this news flash from France Bleu, a network of 44 public radio stations scattered across France)

« Auray en tête, devant Saint-Brieuc et Saint-Malo »

And it says…

“Auray at the top of the list, ahead of Saint-Brieuc and Saint-Malo”

Mais dans la région, c'est Auray, dans le Morbihan, qui remporte le prix de la ville la plus accueillante, se plaçant en 20e position au niveau national. En deuxième place, on trouve Saint-Brieuc (Côtes d'Armor), puis suivent Saint-Malo (Ille-et-Vilaine), Dinan (Côtes d'Armor) et Douarnenez (Finistère). Tous les départements bretons sont donc représentés. 

But in the region [Brittany] it’s Auray, in Morbihan, that wins the prize for the most welcoming town, placing 20th nationally. Saint-Brieuc (in Côtes d’Armor) placed second, followed by Saint-Malo (Ille-et-Vilaine), Dinan (Côtes d’Armor), and Douararnez (Finistère). So all the Breton départements are/were represented.

Selon les commentaires laissés sur Booking.com, "les interactions amicales et les gestes accueillants sont donc particulièrement importants au cours d’un séjour, tout comme la santé et l’hygiène en ces temps incertains marqués par la pandémie de Covid-19 “.

According to reviews left on the website from booking.com travelers, “friendly interactions and welcoming gestures are particularly important during a stay, just as are health and hygiene during these uncertain times, marked by the COVID-19 pandemic.“

**Now, if visitors to Saint-Malo had only stopped by the quay to say “hi,” the “Corsair City” would undoubtedly have placed higher. We are nothing if not welcoming!

Pilot cutters: “the finest sailing boat design ever”

We tell people we take teens on sailing expeditions aboard two classic pilot cutters. And some folks just shrug: “Are we supposed to be impressed?” Well… yes, yes you are. All boats are not created equal. In our last post we featured QBE founder and director Will Sutherland talking about his cutters, built according to a 19th-century French design. But, in fact, our boats are very similar to the famous pilot cutters built to ply the treacherous Bristol Channel, about 200 miles north of Saint-Malo, our home port. Here’s the first part of a documentary by Tom Cunliffe about the history of one of Britain’s most storied boats.

(The first part of the documentary is 16 minutes long.)

Many consider the Bristol Channel pilot cutter to be the finest sailing boat design ever. Fast, seaworthy and beautiful to behold, the pilot cutter is the perfect combination of form and function - a thoroughbred perfectly adapted to a life in one of the Britain’s most treacherous stretches of water. Sailor and writer Tom Cunliffe explores the life of the pilots and sails a perfectly restored cutter to find out just what drove these men and their wonderful machines.”
— From the video description

Will Sutherland talks about QBE’s charismatic sailing boats

The boats look after themselves [...] and the boat looks after the crew.”
— Will Sutherland on why pilot cutters make the perfect boats for teen sailing

Several years ago, QBE founder and director Will Sutherland sat down in the galley of one of his boats to talk about the history of pilot cutters and how his two, Marie Claude and Yseult, came to be built. The video was not staged—people were coming and going—and there were a few technical “glitches.” But keep in mind It was just a kitchen table conversation that somebody captured on their video camera. Production imperfections notwithstanding, it’s an informative and interesting clip. What comes through loud and clear is Will’s impressive experience and deep expertise. The video is 10-minutes long.

 
 

“Boutique” Teen Sailing Expeditions

QBE is what people these days would call a “boutique” sailing program(me): small, lots of personal attention, and “unique selling points (USPs).“ Our boats are very much old-school chic. Our European destinations are right out of a Rizzoli® coffee-table book. And our expeditions are largely organized by crew members who take ownership of most of the everyday tasks, including navigating and taking turns at the helm. We even give our crews the latitude to get lost! (Yes, we have GPS, but that doesn’t mean we let our teens use it.)

Come to think of it, QBE is a bit like the small school in the Swiss Alps where our founder, investors, and volunteers all first met. The views were spectacular. We organized our own mountain expeditions. And the houses/dorms were old converted hotels that oozed charm but needed occasional roof repairs*.

Our pilot cutters are far from state-of-the-art, but they were solidly built by an artisan boatwright a number of years ago, using a 19th-century design. We think they significantly upgrade our value proposition. They are wonderful to sail, very steady in choppy seas, and eye-popping to look at, whether tied up by the quay or cutting through the water at full sail. As an additional plus, our director, Will Sutherland, is a world-class sailing coach and experienced high-school expeditions master. When it comes to premium personal-development and summer enrichment for youngsters, you can’t do better.

*For clarification, our boats DO NOT leak.

The Breton wilderness

When people talk about wilderness courses, they normally mean a trek through some sparsely populated area—often a remote forest or mountain ridge. Or maybe a rafting expedition down a wild river. Many people are surprised to learn that our European neighborhood boasts some impressive under-the-radar wildernesses, many of them along the Breton coastline. Our crew members get the opportunity to see and explore some of them. Take a look at this short drone video of Cap Sizun, produced by Breton photographer and videographer Thibault Poriel (www.thibaultporiel.com):

Cap Sizun is in the département of Finistère, near the western tip of the Breton Peninsula (Finistère means “Land’s End”). Like many national parks around the world, its natural beauty is spectacular. And one of the best ways to see it is… by boat.

©Thibault Poriel. The use of this video on our blog in no way implies an endorsement of QBE Sailing by the copyright owner. It serves only to illustrate the striking beauty of stretches of the Breton coast.

GRACE

In an effort to improve our search rankings, we call ourselves a “a sailing camp,” “an outdoor leadership school,” “a summer enrichment program(me),” “a treasure trove of university admission essay ideas,” and a few dozen other things. And, in one sense or another, all that is true. Teens learn how to sail a traditionally rigged boat; they discover postcard places and unfamiliar cultures; they make great new friends; and they learn something about teamwork, resilience, and leadership. Each expedition provides an expansive array of new experiences and lessons for our crew members to assimilate.

But if we had to net it out, the QBE team (including our volunteers) strive most of all to be a channel of GRACE. Along with teaching young adults how to chart a nautical course, we help them find their own coordinates and think about future directions. As we sail from port to port, we see new confidence and character emerging day by day. Our sailing expeditions prove to crew members that they’re capable of more than they think they are. And that constantly emerging recognition of personal agency helps them see their inestimable worth and impressive potential. We can honestly say that when our courses work the way they’re designed to, which is most of the time, they do in fact confer a transformative grace.